Sunday 12 September 2010

Around Vancouver Island 2010

July 1st 2010 we headed out under the Lions Gate bridge for our summer adventure on-board Ilari. Palomita, with Greg, Lori and Tom on board, left earlier in the day, and we met up in Smugglers cove. We were to meet up with Albatross and Rob and Denise later in Port McNeill.


Tom (our summer son!) and his friends come on board for his first sleep over ...






It was to be a quick trip north along the east coast to Port McNeill to rendezvous with Albatross. We had just missed some nice SE winds that would have allowed us to get a good sail up the coast, and instead we motored a lot of the way with the winds on our nose.
It was shortly after this shot was taken that Greg had had enough (!!) and he decided to tack across the Johnston straight and at least enjoy some sailing.

Our first new anchorage of the trip was Potts Lagoon, where we had a great feast of crab and prawn.

Eoin and Ian had their whale sighting of the summer when they went fishing: their lines were in the water when a large humpback surfaced less than 20 feet from the dinghy!!

Ilari spent an extra day in Port McNeill trying to get our autopilot fixed... we would all meet up again north of Cape Caution where we had decided to go and enjoy some of our favorite beaches: West Beach at Pruth Bay and Fury Cove. We were all hopeful that we would have a better sail from the north to round Cape Scott.












The Humpbacks from Fitzhugh sound came to say goodnight. This was the first of two whale sightings at anchorage over the summer.






Sadie keeps a sharp eye on them!








Before we headed back South around Cape Caution it became apparent that Palomita had some engine problems, and Ilari still needed to get her autopilot fixed. So rather than round Cape Scott we headed back to Port Hardy to get some 'jobs' done!!



While waiting for engine parts we do however manage to have some fun and the crew from Palomita join us on Ilari for a great sail over to Beaver Harbour. The return sail the following day was a bit more work as we beat into strong winds and heavy seas in Queen Charlotte strait. Luckily while we were away Rob managed to catch a yummy salmon for dinner.
The flora around Beaver harbour were amazing as we explored the island and midden.







Finally, all our repairs done, we head off around Cape Scott to the West Coast. An uneventful trip, with low winds across the north end making for a bumpy ride as we motored along. We finally got to put the jib up, as we rounded the cape and the wind was behind us.




Its hard to capture the sea state in a photo but this shot gives you an idea...where is Ilari's bow!

On arrival at Sea Otter Cove we took a walk over to Lominer Bay. An interesting trail through bog and forest.


The next day on our way to Winter Bay we stopped at Grant Bay for lunch. A beautiful beach, open to the Pacific so not a great overnight stop!! Kayakers and walkers leave some neat stuff along these beaches. Eoin and I checked out the swing here.




Winter Harbour is a cool fishing community, mostly summer residents now. Unfortunately, later in the summer, a fishing lodge lost a boat with four people on board off Brooks Peninsula.





As the fog was coming in, we decided to head up a little into Quatsino sound and spend a few nights at East cove... It was a very calm and tranquil spot. We all managed to have very different sails up the sound we were first with a fantastic broad reach most of the way in sunshine. All was well until the wind shifted suddenly, and started blowing 35 knots as we rounded Cliffe point!! We headed up into the wind and got everything back under control before heading into East Cove. The others, all now prepared for the winds after we radioed to warn them, found themselves in dense fog and light enough winds.


We had fun kayaking around and relaxing and harvested some sea asparagus for dinner. Conor is a fan of the kayaks but not the sea asparagus !!








It was time to head around Brooks Peninsula, the next big rounding of the trip. When we left Quatsino sound Palomita decided to head on around to Colombia cove, while we and Albatross anchored for the night in Klaskino inlet in preparation for an early morning departure. They certainly got the better sail with winds of up to 40 knots behind them. We meet another boat - Daybreak - and Leia comes aboard to play and fish.










Eoin and Leia explore the anchorage by dinghy and paddle board with Daybreak's dog Vaga (a Portuguese Water Dog) swimming behind.








The following morning we left with the sun trying to burn through the fog, and rounded Brooks Peninsula and Solander Island.

















Solander in the sunshine the day before when Palomita rounded Brooks



The next stop was Columbia Cove and all the great beaches in the area.























And we all caught up on some reading!!





















What else do the kids get up to along the way...



dress up ...











... make rockets ...



















... make clothes for their stuffies ...








....lots of card games and board games


... activity books and more reading!!





















Leia always brought some of her great crafts on board and challenged the boys and Lori to a puzzle she made one day!










The boys got into the sailing this summer!! Eoin was our keenest crew member on board this year... Conor was happy to jump in when needed but was happier reading his book most days. Tom was also delighted when he was on board for a good beat, as he and Eoin could mange the staysail sheets.

When Daybreak, and then Palomita (with Albatross in tow) dragged anchor in Columbia cove after 3 days, we decide to make a move to Battle Bay before dinner. It was a short and wonderful sail with jibs up in the afternoon breeze.


Albatross



The following day the fog rolled in, so we stayed out of it in the bay.









The tide pools in Battle Bay were great to explore as the boys made interesting shapes with the dry sand.




















There was even some swimming






... and of course more reading ...









We had another great late afternoon sail over to the Bunsby Islands, and anchored in Scow Bay.








The next day we explored the inner islands and found a lagoon with about fifty eagles.




















We then headed out to the outer islands and islets by dinghy, and found a great island pocket beach!







On the way back to Scow Bay, still in our dinghy, we happened upon a small yearling black bear enjoying the berries and goodies at low tide.. This area of Checleset bay from Columbia Cove through the Barrier Islands was to become one of our favourites of the summer.

The following day we were heading off to Walters Cove we came through the inside passages of the islands and explored the great rock formations. (after little engine use in the past few days the batteries needed charging).























Palomita went on the outside and had a great sail







We arrive at Walters Cove and do the chores .. grocery, laundry etc...before heading off to Java the Hutt for dinner.

Sadly when we return from diner and had an opportunity to check our email we found out that Ian's dad Stan had passed away. At 93 he had led a wonderful adventurous and exciting life, and passed away peacefully at home with his wife of 63 years Marie. He would have enjoyed the adventure we took to get back to Toronto for the service. Crossing back across Vancouver island in a float plane.





















After a moving service in Toronto and some time with Ian's family to celebrate Stan's life, we returned to Walters Cove to pick up the boat.







We met back up with Palomita and Albatross in Nuchatlitz Marine Park, after a lunch stop at Catala Spit. We didn't spent much time exploring Nuchatlitz, one of the many places that is on the 'must revisit' list.















Along the way we had some of our best sea otter sightings of the summer. These guys are definitely my favourite: they have it sussed, lying around on the backs all day digging into crab. Basically drifting in and out with the tide!











The bird life has been amazing along the coast also.









The following day, we all had a slow (Palomita had the Spinnaker up so they quickly took us!) but pleasant run up to Tassis, where there was a great marina.






Eoin proving he can sleep anywhere



Before heading around Estevan Point to Hot Springs Cove, we spent the night at Bligh Cove, where the humpbacks again came to entertain us in the anchorage. One of them breached just off the entrance!


Not having the patience of the others, Ilari turned the motor on and motor-sailed the second half of the trip to Hot Springs. As it turned out, luckily for Palomita, they worked for every mile they made, and so they had a great sail.  Because when they did decide to turn the engine on, arriving in Hot Springs, they discovered that they had another major oil leak, and they rafted to us under sail.

Palomita with spinnaker

Pacific Grace






Albatross










Estevan Point Lighthouse










With the part they needed ordered, we settled in to a few relaxing days enjoying the hot springs and exploring the south end of Flores Island. Celebrating Lori and Greg's anniversary and Eoin's birthday.



















We had some great visits to the hot springs: we had them to ourselves after the day trippers left and before the campers and other boaters headed up for sunset dipping.


Eoin's birthday was celebrated in style with a treasure hunt on Albatross,









hot dogs and marshmallows on the beach (and an opportunity to test out the new water soakers)









Sadie enjoyed the party too.









We finished the day with a dip in the hot springs before dinner and a movie! The chocolate mousse (requested by the birthday boy) and a cake to accompany had been made by Conor and I in the morning.









After a few days the fog was starting to look very settled in the cove, so we decided to head further up Flores Island looking for some sunshine. We managed to get Ilari's spinnaker up for the first time in very light winds, and we found some sunshine in Young Cove. There were lots of porpoises spotted underway.

It was a glorious afternoon and the sails went on the Kayaks.














and we watched one of our many great moon rises of the summer.










The following day we decided to take a trail mentioned in one of our guide books to a lake near by. It was a very primitive trail, and it was here that we discovered that Eoin has a bad allergy to wasps. He got bitten shortly before we reached the lake, when we disturbed a nest. We were lucky that vomiting brought him back around, and that Lori had some kids' Benedryll that kept the other symptoms at bay over a 48 hour period. In hindsight we all reflected on why we missed all the signs warning us against the trail. It was Friday 13th, there were lots of dead pilchard-like fish at the mouth of the creek, we had to cross some awful green slime to get to the entrance of the trail. The trail was not maintained and had about 10 years of felled trees to negotiate! But we are now prepared for Eoin and picked up some EpiPens at the next town we got to (Tofino).

We all cool off for a swim in the warm water while Eoin rests with Ian on board.




The next day the fog looks like its clearing so we head back down the inlet to Hootla Kootla. We had a super beat down with Tom and Eoin manning the staysail, and we relaxed for the afternoon on the great beach there. After another a great feast of food that night, we watched the sun set and wished on the shooting stars .

Ilari










The next day there was a good morning breeze, so the sails were out on the kayaks again before we headed off to explore and swim in the wonderful warm pools of the waterfall in the anchorage...
















Our next community stop was to be Tofino,








the first town since Port Hardy (on the north east side of the island). Conor spends his money on this delightful item!


We took the bus to Cox Beach and had a great day with Leia, Caroline and Francois (from Daybreak)

...playing in the surf













...running, and it was some run this is just one side of the beach they covered!!













....and of course as on all BC beaches hut building!!


We ended the day on board Daybreak for a great sushi feast.

From Tofino we made our way to Barkley Sound our last sound before leaving the west coast. There were lots of whales breaching as we had a great run down the coast, a few miles off Long Beach. Palomita had a very close encounter!

The next day we explored the pocket beaches close by .. the sun never really came out and Ian started a whole new style as he dried off after an accidental swim while anchoring the dinghy.




Maria and Emilio joined the Albatross crew.

Jacques Jarvis Lagoon a great little nook with one of the oldest fish traps in the area (a few thousand years) was to be our last night as a group Denise was to head back to Vancouver in the morning. We did the summer proud with a fantastic night of music...

























Lori, Dennis and Rob give both the Wailin Jennys and The Voice Squad a run for their money with their rendition of The Parting Glass.



and the kids do a pretty good job with the teachers! of their favorite pink Floyd number (Another Brick in the Wall).







After dropping Denise off in Ucluelet, Albatross joined us for the boats' final night on the west coast at Dodger Channel . We had had another great beat down the inlet. We tucked into the crab from Jacques Jarvis Lagoon and watched the sun set as the pacific crashed against the rocks.



Albatross and Venus at sunset..


Daybreak was also anchored for the night














The next morning we got to watch this young sea lion's yoga class as he stretched and rolled for about 30 minutes before going fishing in a mackerel ball.











and then there were two... Ilari and Palomita headed up in light winds to Useless Inlet so named for the rocks and narrow passage at the entrance. We figured it was due to the junk on the bottom of the inlet: when we first anchored we managed to pick up a net full of oysters and junk left over from some aquamarine facility in the area. But all was redeemed when we spotted this mum and cub bear, and then had our best crab haul ever: we kept 9 of the big males!










We tried fishing in the morning at the entrance, but when the wind picked up we decided to abandon it as there was little catching going on, and we beat down to Tzantuz cove. We spotted a grey whale fluking on the way.








Lori and Greg went for a dive and the kids and I swam off the dinghy, building up an appetite for the big crab feast.





















We motored via Roberts passage to Bamfield the next day. Palomita had a sail into the fog while we charged the batteries!!

Bamfield has to be my favourite community on the west coast. A great boardwalk.












and Brady Beach is fantastic.



















It was now time to start thinking of heading home and making our way back up the Juan de Fuca strait. Despite leaving in a gale warning to get a nice run to Sooke, other than a good blow on the nose rounding cape Bealle which we beat around, there was no wind again till Sheringham point when our main (in-mast furling) decided to jam!! It was a cold night and a great crab chowder with the last of the Useless Inlet crab and shepherds pie were a welcome feast tucked up below on Palomita.



We headed into Victoria the next day to celebrate Greg's birthday. The sail from Race Rocks into the harbour in Ian's words was 'the sail of the summer'!!

It is always nice to dock in front of the Empress here, and the kids enjoyed the street theatre and I enjoyed someone else's cooking!!




We spent two nights in Sidney Spit before finally making our way back to Vancouver. It was a shock to be back in crowded anchorages, but the kids enjoyed having lots of kids to play with.














We met up again with Daybreak here: Francois had a good day windsurfing when the winds picked up, and when Cory (Lori and Greg's eldest) joined us, he took a turn at mastering a new sport.






Eoin spotted this woodpecker on our walk in the park.









We have a final meal on board Ilari with the crews from Palomita and Daybreak: old and new friends. A fitting feast as I emptied the freezer onto the barbecue.

But we were destined to spend one more night out! We discovered that the fuel in our starboard tank, which we had not used all summer, had gone bad. We changed the fuel filters, anchored in 115 feet of water off Atkins reef, and Ian and Eoin dinghied into Montague Harbour for fuel . We anchored in the north end of the harbour and watched the sun set on the beach before tucking in for the night.

August 31st, it was an early start to catch the slack at Porlier Pass and check the weather (SE Gale - we were to get to good sail home after all)


The photo of the boys that morning sums up the summer for me.. relaxed and content.